The Big Chop Diva

Be Fearless. Go Natural.

Hello Beautiful Ones,


So you decided to do the Big Chop? You did not want to undergo the long "grow-out" transitioning period and are you having trouble managing your new TWA (teenie-weenie afro)?

Here are a few tips to consider:

1. Establish a Healthy Hair Regimen. Just because your hair is short does not mean you should not put just as much care into it as when it was long and/or relaxed.
• I recommend these TWA basics:
• Sulfate-free shampoo or co-wash weekly,
• A good moisturizing conditioner for weekly deep conditioning treatments
• Leave-in conditioner
• A  moisturizer and sealant (A butter or  an oil)
• A good styler
• A wide tooth comb and denman brush
• A Spray Bottle
• Massage scalp. Scalp massages can to stimulate hair grow. Try an oil like coconut or jojoba oil and lace with essential oils like rosemary, lavender, peppermint, or tea tree oil.
2. Let your grow freely at first to learn your curl pattern. Hair care should come before styling. I would recommend try coils or twists to jump-start curl definition. It may not grow in the same curl pattern. You have to train your curls.
3. Add Cute Hair Accessories to add flair to your new "do". A a cute headband, cute combs and clips, a  flower, or jeweled adornments. You can always wear nice makeup and put on a cute pair of earrings.
4. Stay Encouraged. Hair does not grow over night. Unfortunately there is no magical or miracle product to grow hair quickly. Develop a healthy hair regimen, drinks lots of water, eat healthy, keep your hair clean and moisturized, and protect your ends.

What transitioning challenges have you encountered? Please share.
 Stay encouraged on this journey!

 Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty

Photo Credit:

Chrisette Michele: http://gofro.tumblr.com/tagged/twa

Keep It Simple, Sexy: Pre-Poo Treatment

Keep It Simple, Sexy

Use my K.I.S.S. Method to Build a Solid Healthy Hair Regimen

Hello Beautiful Ones,

Last week I discussed the first steps of the K.I.S.S. Method: Section and Detangle. I hoped that article helped you get rid of those occasional stubborn knots and tangles. Gently detangling hair makes the other steps a breeze. Remember the K.I.S.S. Method is an easy way to approach healthy hair practices and build a simple hair care regimen.

Let’s take a look at the K.I.S.S. Hair Regimen:

Ideally, this process should be done every 7-10 days…

Section Hair

Detangle Hair

Pre-Poo Treatment (Optional)

Cleanse Hair (Co-wash optional)

Deep Condition Hair

Moisturize and Seal Hair

Protect Hair

The third step :

Pre-poo Treatment

Pre-poo or Pre-shampoo treatments are hair treatments applied before the cleansing step. These treatments are optional, but I find them beneficial because that add much-needed moisture and softness to my hair. If you have extremely dry hair or suffer from breakage, I recommend adding this step to your regimen. It can help your hair regain suppleness and elasticity. When I use a clarifying shampoo, pre-poo treatments help to retain my natural oils and my hair feels less stripped.

Pre-poo treatments can be done with natural emollients/oils or commercial conditioners, or a combination of both. You can choose to warm your treatment before the application. For simplicity, sometimes I warm coconut oil, then add a few drops of lavender and rosemary oil and apply it to my hair and sleep with it over night. For those who prefer a conditioner, I use a water-base conditioner such as Organix Nourishing Coconut Milk Conditioner. When my hair feels a little fragile, I use Queen Helene Cholesterol. Make your selection based on the needs of your hair. Remember, experimentation is the key.

Pre-poo treatments are typically done 20-30 minutes to washing or you can use them as an overnight treatment. I prefer the overnight treatment, because I believe it works best for the treatment to fully penetrate my hair fibers.

If your hair is short, it should not take long to apply the treatment. If you have medium to thick hair with length, it make take about 10 minutes to apply. It helps if you have a mixing bowl for a oil/ conditioner combination, applicator bottle, and a plastic cap.

Applying the Pre-Poo Treatment:

1. Since you have already detangled your hair (from previous step), apply the pre-poo treatment to each section untwisting the twisted hair, smoothing the treatment onto hair in a downward motion from root to tip, and re-twisting the hair that was loosened. Apply to scalp also. Work one section at a time. Only use fingers  (can cover hands with gloves) during this step, no combs or brushes.
2. After the hair is covered with the pre-poo treatment, use the pads of your fingers to gently massage your scalp in a circular motion.
3. Next cover, your entire head with a plastic conditioning cap. If you plan to use an overnight treatment cover with a satin bonnet over the plastic cap, so you won't stain your pillow case with oil. The benefit of overnight treatments is it will help to insulate the treatment and your body heat will warm your hair for a deep conditioning effect. If you don't plan to use an overnight treatment, you can still cover with the plastic cap and wrap your hair with a warm towel from your dryer. Or you can sit under a dryer for 20-30 minutes. If you don't choose to apply heat, leave on for at least an hour or until your hair begins to soften to get the deep conditioning effect.
4. Remove plastic cap. Rinse the pre-poo treatment out of hair. If you use a sulfate shampoo, leave a small trace of oil in hair. Hair will feel less stripped. Hair should not feel oily or sticky. Shampoo and condition hair as normal.

This is an optional/personal choice to incorporate a pre-poo treatment. It is not meant to be too complex. If you decide to use this method and use an emollient, make sure you apply light. You don't want greasy hair, because it will make the cleansing phase more difficult. Don't create more work for yourself.

Good Oils/Butters for Pre-Poo Treatments

• Almond
• Argan
• Avocado butter (melted)
• Castor
• Coconut
• Grapeseed
• Jojoba
• Olive
• Shea butter (melted)

*Sometimes I add essential oils as stimulants (Cedarwood, Lavender, Peppermint, Rosemary, or Tea Tree)

Good Water-based Conditioners for Pre-poo Treatments

• Aussie Moist Conditioner
• Dove Care Conditioner
• Giovanni Smooth as Silk Deeper Moisture Conditioner
• Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner
• Organix Nourishing Coconut Milk Conditioner
• Queen Helene Cholesterol
• Suave Moisturizing Conditioner
• VO5 Moisturizing Conditioner
• Trader Joe's Refresh Conditioner

Next, I will discuss the Cleansing Step...

Good luck on your hair journey!

Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty



Keep It Simple, Sexy: Section and Detangle

Keep It Simple, Sexy

Use my K.I.S.S. Method to Build a Solid Healthy Hair Regimen

Hello Beautiful Ones,

As I mentioned previously, each week I will highlight the components that I use in my K.I.S.S. Method of establishing a healthy hair regimen. Once you are discipline in your regimen it becomes second nature. I follow this faithfully, because it works for me. I have noticed that my hair is fuller: less shedding, tangles, and single strand knots. I use this regardless if I plan to wear a braided updo, a wig, two strand twist-out, or puff. 

Let’s take a look at the K.I.S.S. Hair Regimen:

Ideally, this process should be done every 7-10 days…

Section Hair

Detangle Hair

Pre-Poo (Optional)

Cleanse Hair (Co-wash optional)

Deep Condition Hair

Moisturize and Seal Hair

Protect Hair

 

The first step of the K.I.S.S. Method is Section and Detangle.

Tangles, matting, and knots can be very unsightly and painful to get rid of. If you notice your hair is doing either, you should detangle your hair immediately. It is very important to detangle your hair before you proceed with any other steps such as the Cleansing or Conditioning process. Only detangle hair when you are calm and have the patience to handle your hair with gentle care. If you are preoccupied or frustrated, you can cause more knots and tangles leading to unnecessary damage. Just remember your hair is vulnerable during the detangling process due to the pressure you place on your hair from the pulling and stretching. Whether you choose to detangle your hair wet or dry, do not assume you have to be less gentle with it. Always handle your hair with care.

The best detangling tool is your hands. Your fingers are superior to combs and/or brushes when you section and detangle hair. Your hands and fingers help reduce the stress of detangling and style manipulation. Fingers can feel for tangles that a comb cannot. The smooth padding of our fingers can easily detect tangles and knots. With your hands, you can isolate a knot and gently undo it  and can also remove naturally shed hairs. Use your fingers especially for hair that has been hardened with gel or a styler.

Now, I only use my hands when undoing my braided updo, puffs, or twists. I find myself hardly ever using a comb, and I have discarded my brushes as these mechanical tools can rip through hair, lifting the scales of the cuticle causing damage such as breakage. Now I not saying you should not use a comb or a brush. These are best after you have fully finger detangled your hair.  You can use a wide tooth comb or denman brush, but they are not always necessary. When you use a comb, make sure the teeth of the comb is smooth; free of sharp ridges. When using these tools, lightly stroke hair, starting from tip to root.

Never run a comb or brush through a tangle, because it can rip your hair out. Remove a tangle from your hair with your fingers until you reach the core of the tangle. Squeeze the core with your fingers by rubbing in between your fingers. Continue to loosen tangle hair by hair. This should loosed the tangle without ripping out your hair. You may not remove every single strand from the tangle. The goal is to be able to section hair without creating more tangles in the next steps of the K.I.S.S. Method.

If your hair is short, I recommend detangling during the conditioning step and you can add an oil to loosen any stubborn knots.

Hair Kitty Kitty uses the K.I.S.S. Method to Section and Detangle:

After my style is removed (Detangle on loose hair. Remove all hairpins, clips and adornments), I, almost always section and detangle on dry hair...

1. On loose hair, I make a part with my fingers going down the middle of my head vertically so my hair is divided into two parts. Then I divide hair horizontally. The hair should be in four equal parts. Clip three sections, leaving one section loose.
2. You can start with either side, but I start with my left side. I start with the back of my head on the left side. I focus only on the loose hair that I just separated.
3. With my hands, I start from the ends (tips) of my hair to gently separate the strands... feeling for any knots or tangles.
4. Once I have successfully removed shed hairs, tangles and knots. I finger comb my hair. With my hands, I make sure it  is smooth- making sure it is all going in the same DOWNWARD direction (same direction of the cuticle structure).
5. With my hand, I part this section into two parts. Then I twist (you can plait if you prefer) each loose section, leaving me with two twist. Never leave the hair loose, because it may get mixed in with tangled and matted hair. Leaving it loose creates unnecessary work for yourself.
6. Repeat this process until you have detangled all or your sectioned hair. When done you should have minimum 8 twists or  8 braids. You may require more depending on length and thickness of your hair.

Minimizing the use of combs and brushes will help to preserve the structure of the hair; therefore giving you healthier looking hair. Remember, your fingers are less likely to rip the hair and strip the hair cuticle. The K.I.S.S. Method: Section and Detangle helps to minimize damage and makes the other steps much easier.

Next, I will discuss the Pre-poo step of the K.I.S.S. Method.

Good luck on your hair journey!

Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty

Keep It Simple, Sexy

Keep It Simple, Sexy

Use my K.I.S.S. Method to Build a Solid Hair Regimen

Hello Beautiful Ones,

I believe discipline, knowledge, and patience is the key in healthy hair care. You have to develop a hair regimen to see results. You can start now, regardless if you are transitioning, have done the big chop, or have already achieved your desired hair length.

When I finally decided to care for my hair, I was lost. Honestly, I was constantly frustrated, but I refuse to go back to a relaxer. I did not know how often to wash my hair, what products to use, or how to style my hair. I began to search for answers to my questions. Experimentation for me has been essential during this journey. I realize similar to my fitness plan, I have to be discipline when caring for my hair.

Let’s take a look at the K.I.S.S. Hair Regimen:

Ideally, this process should be done every 7-10 days…

Section Hair

Detangle Hair

Pre-Poo (Optional)

Cleanse Hair (Co-wash optional)

Deep Condition Hair

Moisturize and Seal Hair

Protect Hair

**Each week I will provide an in-depth look at each component of my hair regimen.

Starting in May, I will begin product reviews and make recommendations whether you wear your hair straight, curly, wavy, or in weaved styles.

Good luck on your hair journey!

Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty

Don't Be Scared of a Little Sweat

Ways Exercising Can Stimulate Hair Growth

Hello Beautiful Ones,

There has been many instances in the past in which I avoided working out because I did not want to "sweat my perm out", end up with curly-haired edges, or just did not want my hair looking a mess. Not only did I deprive my body of much needed exercise which caused weight gain, but I was causing my hair to suffer. The first thing we think about when we think of exercise is our bodies. We almost never emphasize the benefits it can have on our hair. In the book, "If You Love It, It Will Grow: A Guide to Growing Long Afro-Textured Hair", Dr. Phoenyx Austin discusses a few ways exercise stimulate hair growth:

• Exercise helps regulate the glands which produce the hormones that will stimulate hair follicles

• Exercise improves blood flow and nutrient delivery to the dermal papilla, which will stimulate hair follicles

• Exercise boosts your metabolism, which will accelerate the rate at which your hair follicles produce hair

• Exercise reduces the release of cortisol (the "stress hormone"), which is responsible for pushing hair into the telogen phase (resting phase of hair follicle)

Now that you have the benefits of exercise on hair growth, this should be an incentive to work out, especially if long, healthy hair is your ultimate goal. Plan your hairstyles that is suitable for an active lifestyle, because hair growth and exercise work together.

Regardless of whether you desire long hair or not, you should still strive to healthy overall: inside and out. Moreover, let us all aim to make exercise a part of our lifestyle. Remember, many adverse health issues can be reduced with proper nutrition and regular exercise. Please do not avoid exercise to avoid messing up your hair.

Rule of thumb: Luv Your Hair. Luv Your Body. Luv Yourself

Do you avoid exercising because of your hair?

Coming soon... Tips to maintain hair when working out.


Good Luck on Your Hair & Fitness Journey!

Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty

What Do You Know About Black Hair?

Dispelling Common Misconceptions about Black Hair

Hello Beautiful Ones,

Before the natural hair movement, there were not many resources to help us understand our hair. We were taught certain practices that have damaged our hair over time. Myths have been perpetuated and have been encouraged so long that many black women do not know the real truths about the hair on their head. Let me dispel some of the most common truths.

·         Black Hair Doesn’t Grow

It is true that black hair in its natural state is more prone to shrinkage, especially when moist or wet. So, it is the perception that most black women have short hair, because their true length is hard to see. Every human being has a predetermined length and predetermined growth rates. Hair grows on average 4-6 inches per year. Most black women have never reach or maintained their terminal length (the longest hair can grow given the length of its growing phase).  Many of us reach a shoulder length plateau. The main cause is due to a general lack of proper care or a lack of a protein/moisture balance in our hair regimen. The good news is black hair can grow and will grow when it is properly cared for and gently handled. Hair preservation and hair retention is the key to getting lengthy locs.

·         Hair is Alive

Technically, hair is dead.  Not just the ends, but the entire strand. There are no living cells above the hair follicle. We sometimes assume it is alive due to lifelike characteristics: shine, elasticity, and resilience. Cathy Howse, author of Ultra Black Hair Growth II, states it best, “That's the reason it does not hurt to cut it”.

·         Hair Grease is Best for Black Hair

I remember sitting in between my mom’s legs as she reached in a jar of grease and scooped a big glop of grease and massaged my scalp with it. The next day my scalp felt suffocated and my hair was weighed down. This is a common tradition in the black household with mothers and daughters, but it is an unhealthy hair practice. Grease is not recommended, especially for daily use because the main ingredient is petroleum or mineral oil. These oils do not penetrate the hair shaft and it blocks moisture from entering the hair shaft which can contribute to an itchy scalp, dryness, and dandruff.

·         Water is Bad for Black Hair

Many black women wash their hair infrequently and stay away from water because we are taught that water will dry out our hair’s natural oils. Water is our hair’s greatest moisturizer. Black hair thrives in environments with high moisture. Water improves the hair’s moisture content because it is encouraged to bind within the hair shaft each time you shampoo and condition your hair.  Water cannot dry your hair. It is the infrequent cleansing and conditioning, improper use of products and the application of harsh products that will dry your hair out.

·         Black Hair is Difficult to Manage & Black Hair is Hard to Style

There is a misconception that black hair is only kinky or tightly coiled and it is always dry and brittle. Because of this myth, people think without a chemical relaxer or treatment, black hair can only be worn as an afro. Black hair is very versatile. Black hair can be healthy with the use of proper hair care techniques.  We are known to style are hair in many different ways. If you are starting your natural hair journey and have a TWA (tiny weenie afro), your styling versatility may be limited. However, as it grows longer you can achieve many more hairstyles, such as: Bantu Knots, Braids, Coils, Cornrows, Curly Afro Puff, Flat twists, French Braids, Locs, Rod Sets, and Two-strand twists.

·         Black Natural Hair is Strong

It appears to be strong, but actually it is very fragile and should be handled with extreme care. In its natural state it bends in many angles along the hair shaft. With black hair, the shape and diameter does remain constant along the entire length of an individual hair strand. These bends and changes along the hair fiber make our hair weaker as opposed to it being uniformly straight from root to end.

·         Brushing Stimulates Growth with Black Hair

Brushing can sometimes stimulate the scalp; however, it causes major damage to the shaft of the hair. Brushes, especially used in a rough manner can strip and rake away the cuticles of the shaft. Moreover, it can lead to extreme breakage or hair loss.

·         Trimming Aids in Black Hair Growth

Hair grows from the scalp, not from your ends. Hair growth occurs from within the scalp at the root. To see progress in your hair growth journey you must preserve the hair strand and retain the hair by protecting the ends, which is the oldest part of your hair. Trimming should be used if you want a neat, even appearance, need to rid the hair of weathered, damaged, or split ends. Also it can be used for single strand knots. Unnecessary trimming works against your hair growth and hair retention.

I hope this cleared up some things you were taught about black hair. Understanding what makes black hair thrive is the key.

Good luck on your healthy hair journey!

Luv,

Hair Kitty Kitty

 

References

1.       Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care, ( Stafford, Texas: Saja Publishing Company, LLC, 2011).

2.       Cathy Howse, Ultra Black Hair Growth II, (UBH Publications, Inc., 2000).

3.       Chicoro, Grow It: How to Grow Afro-Textured Hair to Maximum Lengths in  the Shortest Time, (ChicoroGYA Publishing, 2009).

4.       Photo Credit: madamenoire.com